The Wagah Border Ceremony (or Beating Retreat Ceremony) is a spectacle that cannot be missed during a visit to Amritsar, the city that’s famous for its Golden Temple of the Sikhs in the Indian state of Punjab.
This ceremony takes place every day at the only open land border between India and Pakistan, which connects the cities of Amritsar and Lahore. Although few people actually cross the Wagah Border, thousands of people gather here every day to watch the military parade.
You will find everything you need to know if you want to attend the famous Wagah Border Ceremony in Amritsar in this guide. This ceremony is unlike anything I have ever seen, and considering the tensions between India and Pakistan, it’s quite a unique spectacle, to say the least.
The Wagah Border Ceremony: What You Should Know
The Wagah Border Ceremony: Why is it held?
When India was partitioned in 1947, forming West Pakistan (now Pakistan), India and East Pakistan (now Bangladesh), the Wagah Border was established to mark the boundary between India and West Pakistan.
Ever since 1959, a military parade, known as the Wagah Border Ceremony has been held here. This ceremony stands as a symbol of the rivalry between both countries and aims to emphasize the countries’ cooperation and brotherhood at the same time.
This being said, rivalry and pride can be sensed a bit more than brotherhood, if you’re asking me. Soldiers on both sides will compete by raising their legs in the air as high as they can while people cheer for their country. On top of that, there’s an ongoing battle for the tallest flagpole at the Wagah Border (I kid you not).
The guards who participate in the ceremony have carefully been chosen too. Not only based on their abilities to perform the drill but also based on their height and how imposing they are.
Wagah Border Parade timing
The timings of the Wagah Border Ceremony depend on the season. During the winter, it’s held between 4:15 pm and 5:30 pm, whereas in the summer, it starts at 5:15 pm and ends at 6:30 pm.
Buses and rickshaws to the Wagah Border leave about 2 hours before the ceremony starts. This is at 2 pm in winter and at 3 pm in summer.
It takes about an hour to get to the border, and you will still have to walk for about 10 to 15 minutes to reach the tribunes from the parking lot.
How to get to the Wagah Border from Amritsar
The Wagah Border is 30 km (18.6 mi) from Amritsar and 25 km (15.5 mi) from Lahore and getting from Amritsar to the Wagah Border is super easy. It takes about an hour to get there, but this may vary a little according to your chosen way of transportation.
You will find plenty of people selling tickets for a ride to the border in the streets near the Golden Temple. It’s hard to miss them as they will approach you all the time.
The main ways to get to the border are the following (the prices I’ve mentioned are to go to the border and back):
- Tourist bus: This is the way I would recommend. The double-decker tourist bus costs 350 INR and you can either sit in the AC department inside or in the open-air department on top of the bus. You will find a ticket booth for this bus on the roundabout with the statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. This is a 10-minute walk from the Golden Temple.
- Rickshaw: A rickshaw ride to the border and back will cost around 800 INR. If you’re with a group of 3 or 4 people, this is probably the best way to get there. Do make sure to take an auto-rickshaw and not a CNG, as these are very slow.
- Shared rickshaw: Taking the shared rickshaw is the cheapest way to get to the Wagah border (it costs about 150 INR), but it will be a bit cramped. There are about 8 people per rickshaw, so it won’t be the most comfortable ride. You will find people selling tickets for shared rickshaws in the streets surrounding the Golden Temple.
- Private car: A private car is definitely the most comfortable way to get to the Wagah Border, but it is more expensive too. You can expect to pay around 1800 INR.
- Tour: If you don’t want to organize things by yourself, you can book an Amritsar sightseeing tour that includes the Wagah Border. This is an easy and comfortable way to attend the ceremony and see Amritsar’s highlights at the same time.
Either way you choose to get to the border, your driver will wait for you at the parking lot and bring you back to Amritsar after the ceremony. I would recommend exchanging numbers with your driver just in case you can’t find him when you’re ready to head back.
Where to sit during the ceremony
The tribunes on the Indian side of the border have a capacity of 25,000 spectators and they were pretty full when I was there.
There are three areas where you can sit: the “VIP” seats close to the border, the middle section and the upper section. It works on a first-come-first-serve basis, and it’s not possible to book seats in advance.
The best seats are the ones close to the border gate. This is where most of the action will happen. To get there, you will have to walk through the passway in the middle of the tribune building. There will be guards standing there, however, and they prioritize foreigners, women and children.
❗ Watch out for the following scam: When you sit down, some guys will hand you a drink and walk away to make it seem like it’s free. If you open it, they will come back and ask for a ridiculous amount of money.
Facilities: Drinks, snacks and Indian flags
It’s good to know that you can find some drinks and snacks in the streets leading up to the border. These are mainly water, juice, popcorn and chips.
There will be people selling drinks in the VIP tribunes too before the ceremony. Some of them are known to scam people, though, so it’s better to buy your drinks before reaching the tribunes.
Additionally, you can also buy Indian flags and caps, and there will be people walking around with Indian colours to paint on your face too (they will expect a tip).
Although I’ve heard they’re very filthy, it’s good to know that there are toilets at the Wagah Border.
Tip: You can buy drinks and snacks at the border but don’t forget to bring sunscreen as there’s little shade in the tribunes.
The Wagah Border Ceremony: What to expect
The Wagah Border Ceremony is a synchronized parade of Indian and Pakistani soldiers. The soldiers will march towards each other and compete by lifting their legs as high up in the air as they possibly can.
On the Indian side, the atmosphere is loud and cheerful. Women will be invited to dance to loud Indian music and run with the Indian flag. Meanwhile, the public will cheer and shout “Hindustan” or “Bharat mata ki jay” (meaning “long live mother India”).
Meanwhile, the Pakistani side of the parade is much quieter, with fewer people attending the ceremony. While the Pakistani side always had fewer attendants than the Indian side, the number of attendants has decreased recently. It’s believed that this is due to Pakistan’s soaring inflation because of the country’s crisis of 2022-2024.
After a while, the border gates that separate the nations will open. The marching continues a little longer and then, the flags of both countries will be lowered simultaneously.
At the end of the ceremony, an Indian soldier will shake hands with a Pakistani soldier before the gates are closed again. After the ceremony, hundreds of people will line up to take selfies with the soldiers.
Best Time to Visit Amritsar
The best time to visit Amritsar is between November and March, which are the winter months. At this time of the year, the weather will be most pleasant (13.5°C to 26.9 °C or 56.4°F to 80.4°F).
Do note that it tends to get quite cold in January, as temperatures average 11.5°C (52.9°F) during this month. If you prefer warmer weather, the months of November and March will be better.
If you can, then avoid summer (April to June) as it can get up to 39.2 °C (102.6°F) at this time of the year, which is not ideal for exploring.
The monsoon season starts in July and ends in October. There will be quite some rainfall and it will be hot and humid at this time of the year. Although this is not the most ideal time to visit Amritsar, it’s better than the Summer.
Where to Stay in Amritsar
During a visit to Amritsar, the best place to stay is within walking distance of the Golden Temple. This is where you will find most of the tourist attractions, restaurants, shops and hotels.
I stayed at Hotel Shine Star, a nice and clean budget stay in a quiet street just 10 minutes from the Golden Temple. The one downside I encountered here is that some of their rooms don’t have a window. However, if you’re out and about exploring all day, I don’t think this is a big deal.
Useful FAQs
Is the Wagah Border Ceremony free to visit?
Yes, it’s completely free to attend the Beating Retreat Ceremony. You will only need to arrange your transport to and from the Wagah border. This can be done cheaply if you’re on a tight budget.
Do you need to book in advance to visit the Wagah Border?
It’s not possible to book tickets for the Wagah Border Ceremony. The seats in the tribunes are on a first-come, first-served basis. You can, however, book your transportation to the border in advance (which I recommend doing) or book a tour that combines the ceremony with Amritsar’s highlights.
Wagah Border Ceremony in Amritsar: Final Thoughts
I hope this post is helpful and that you found all of the answers you were looking for. Let me know in the comments if there’s anything I’ve missed.
The Wagah Border Ceremony is a unique, Indian travel bucket list experience that is definitely worth attending when you’re in Amritsar. This is a very unusual border and the atmosphere on the Indian side is crazy!
Did you attend the Wagah Border Ceremony in Amritsar or Lahore? What was your experience like? Let me know in the comments!
If you’re planning on crossing this border (or are curious to know what it would be like), I’ve written an entire guide on the topic. You can find it here: Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan.
Make sure to check out my guide on how to spend 1 or 2 days in Amritsar next for some inspiration!
Read more about India:
- The Best Places to Visit in McLeodGanj
- Itinerary for a day in Delhi
- The Most Beautiful Indian Landmarks
- Things NOT To Do in India
- A Complete Packing List for India (for Females)
- How to AVOID Getting Sick in India
India Travel Planning Checklist
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🏨 Find the best accommodation via Booking or Hostelworld.
🛺 Download the Ola app to order a rickshaw or a taxi.
🚃 Use 12GoAsia to book trains and buses in India.
🚗 Rent a car with Discover Cars to get the best rates.
💰 Get travel insurance via VisitorsCoverage, one of the best-reviewed travel insurance companies.
👘 Check out my complete India packing list for females.
📋 Don’t forget to check if you need a visa to visit India.
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